grow | parsnips

By MEREDITH KIRTON

Whilst parsnips today may be confused by some as “white carrots” there was a time not so long ago in the middle ages when carrots would never have featured on a good British feasting table, such was the high ranking status of the now humble parsnip. Making a comeback to the table, however, the parsnips sweetness and versatility is finally being recognised again.

To grow them, the best way is to plant out seeds.  Dig over you garden bed a few weeks earlier with well rotted manure or blood and bone, then soak
some of the small, flaky seeds overnight in water to aid in their germination.  Run a string line or use a stake flat on the ground to make
your straight line, and sow your seeds about 15-20cm apart – you can always thin out small parsnips every second plant as they successfully
germinate and grow. Apart from regular water, full sun and free draining soil, the thing you next need to have in spades is patience, as 14-16 weeks is not unusual for a decent sized root to develop.  To harvest, simply put your garden fork own beside the plant and gently lever to loosen the soil, then pull.
Storage for more than a few weeks is best by simply leaving your parsnips in the ground, bearing in mind that frosts only make the roots sweeter.

Photography by SUE STUBBS | Blog designed by RED PEPPER GRAPHICS

grow | rocket

By MEREDITH KIRTON

For many people the dream of having salad greens ready to pick is an everyday reality, and one of the easiest of all to grow is rocket, known botanically as Eruca sativa but also known commonly as Arugula and Italian Cress, as it is naturally from the Mediterranean.

This fast growing, nutty flavoured leaf has a little peppery overtone, making it a delicious addition to your salad.  To grow rocket, you can either so seeds direct into place or buy ready sprouted seedlings, but be careful not to over cover them; 2mm of earth is enough. Seed successive batches every 2 weeks so you have continual supply and feed regularly liquid fertiliser so they grow vigorously and are not bitter. They need at least 4 hours sun to develop full flavour, and will tolerate full sun.  In the heat of summer they are prone to bolting, or going to seed quickly themselves, but they readily self seed, ensuring that new rocket plants will quickly fill up any holes. If you don’t want this to happen, cut them back hard and they will reshoot with a fresh batch of edible leaves.

There is also another similar tasting plant called wild rocket, or Duplotaxis tenufolia, which has more deeply indented leaves and a more complex flavour.  Growing conditions and treatments are the same.

Photography by SUE STUBBS | Blog designed by RED PEPPER GRAPHICS

grow | parsley

By MEREDITH KIRTON

Parsley actually has quite a few forms, from common curled parsley that most people recognize as the garnish from butchers windows of prawn cocktails in the ‘70s right through to the lesser known types like French Parsley, which is also known as Chervil.  All are actually related to the carrot and parsnip, which is no surprise to those of you who know of Hamburg parsley, the cultivar that develops a carrot like white root with a delicate parsley flavour.  All parsleys can actually have both the seed, root, stalk and leaf eaten, so long as they are washed properly.

In vogue today is Continental or Flat leafed parsley, which is also known as Italian parsley.  It features in recipes like tabouleh and has a stronger flavour and leaf less prone to wilting. Coriander, or Chinese parsley, is also very popular, probably because of the increase in Asian food, and it lends an almost citrus-like freshness to foods.

The trick with growing all types is to sow seed directly into position.  None of this family really likes transplanting, and the stress of doing so can trigger plants to prematurely “bolt” or go to seed. To encourage healthy, vigorous growth, plant in full sun in well drained soil, and feed every 3 weeks with a liquid feed like seaweed solution or fish emulsion.

Actually, one of the easiest ways to always have a supply of parsley is actually to let plants mature a seed naturally, that way they will pop up when the climatic situation is perfect.  Also, the flowering heads of this whole family are great at attracting beneficial insects to the garden, which in turn will help keep your plant attacking insects in check.

Photography by SUE STUBBS | Blog designed by RED PEPPER GRAPHICS

grow | beans

By MEREDITH KIRTON

Got a fence?  2 metres of beans growing along it could feed your family all summer, and the kids will love going outside with a basket to cut their own greens for dinner, or just nibble on raw beans as they past.  If you can’t find a fence, no probs, you can grow dwarf beans in the garden in rows.

Both runner types and dwarf types can also be grown in tubs too, though obviously the taller varieties will need a tall tripod about 1.8m is ideal, and they are actually very pretty too, with some purple (‘Purple King’ and ‘Purple Queen’), or yellow (‘Bountiful Butter’) podded varieties available. These are all frost tender, and should only be sown after all chance of late cold snaps are gone.

If you live in a colder climate, then Perennial beans, known as runners, can also be grown. These are cut back each autumn then reshoot in spring from their crown.  The two best known ones are ‘Scarlet Runner’, which has beautiful red blooms, and ‘Borlotti’ which has speckled red beds.  These are both the sorts of beans that need slow cooking to be edible, like kidney beans ‘Canellini’.

Whatever you settle on, beans like an enriched soil with lots of added compost to thrive.  They also love regular watering, hate the wind and dislike being overfed, as they will actually make their own nitrogen fertiliser with their specialised roots.  They produce more and more beans the more you pick, so harvest them continually every 4 days of so to keep the plants productive, and be careful not to damage the bush, which is quite easily done, when you harvest by always using a knife of scissors, to reap your bounty.  Sow seeds now, and you’ll be munching away in 10 weeks time.

Photography by SUE STUBBS | Blog designed by RED PEPPER GRAPHICS

grow | peas

By MEREDITH KIRTON

Growing instructions for the
Grow Harvest Cook Give-away Snap Pea seeds

Peas are normally sown in autumn or winter, but can be sown into early spring in cold areas like Tasmania and even into summer in areas where it doesn’t get too hot. They like a soil that drains well, and if it’s too acidic, add some lime and dig over well prior to planting.

Plant pea seeds directly where they grow every 5cm or so and then gently firm them down into the soil. The soil should be well dug and pre-moistened, but then not watered for a few days as you can easily rot the seeds. Protect the emerging seedlings from birds with some sticks or netting, as they can develop a taste for young pea shoots!

These snap peas need support so are ideal growing on 1.5m tall stakes to help support them. These can be structured in a tripod or an A-frame run, or even cross hatched like a lattice. If possible run this north to south so they get the most sun possible.

Peas take about 8-10 weeks to start cropping, and the more you pick the more you get, so pick regularly. At the end of your pea season, dig your pea stalks back into the ground and you’ll enrich your soil with not only organic matter, but also nitrogen, as peas have a magical way of using special nodules on their roots to take nitrogen from the air and turn it into a plant useable form.

grow | coriander

By MEREDITH KIRTON

Coriander is the new parsley.  Many dishes cooked today use either the leaf, root or seed to add flavour, especially those with an Asian feel to them.  Also known as Chinese Parsley, it’s unfortunately not as easy to grow as parsley, and will need some shade in summer to prevent it from “bolting” or running to seed early.  The variety best suited for foliage is one called ‘Cilantro’.

The best time to plant coriander is now, in early spring, when you’ll get maximum foliage.  Sow seeds unto a light, well drained soil away from any fennel, as the two are not particularly compatible. Its flowers have the added benefit of attracting beneficial insects like hoverflies and lacewings, so planting it will be a boon in more ways than one.  Allow your plants to flower and seed towards the end of the season.  You can harvest seeds for curries, but do allow some to drop back down onto your soil as they will germinate again themselves when conditions suit again, and you’ll have another crop on the way.

Photography by SUE STUBBS | Blog designed by RED PEPPER GRAPHICS

harvest | pumpkin

By MANDY SINCLAIR

Storage:
Pumpkin or squash come in all shapes, sizes and colours. They can be large or small, smooth skinned or ridged, round or long. Generally speaking they all have a similar flavour. Depending on the variety, some will be a little sweeter than others and water content will also vary.
Whole pumpkin will store well for up to 2 months after being picked. Store in a cool well ventilated place with the stalk attached. This will help protect the inside from damp.
Once cut, pumpkin needs to be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for 3-5 days.

What to do with glut

• Freeze:

Peel and chop pumpkin. Blanch in a large saucepan of boiling water for 3 mins. Drain and refresh under cold water. Drain again. Pat dry with kitchen paper or a clean tea towel. Pack into freezer bags or plastic containers and freeze. Store frozen for up to 6 months. Thaw and use as you would normally for baking, mash, in casseroles, soups or curries.
Alternatively, cook pumpkin until soft, drain and mash until smooth. Freeze in ice cube trays to use as baby food or in plastic containers. Use for pumpkin tarts, as a topping for pies or in vegetable lasagne.

• Preserve:

Pumpkin Jam

Boil 1.5kg peeled and chopped pumpkin with ½ cup of water, until very soft. Drain and mash until smooth. Return to pan with 1.5kg caster sugar and rind and juice of 2 lemons. Simmer, stirring, until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high and boil for 20 mins, until thick. Pour into sterilized jars and seal.

• Dry:

Pumpkin seeds

Remove seeds from 1 whole pumpkin and place in a bowl of cold water. Rub seeds between hands to remove any sinew. Drain well. Bring 2 cups of water and 2 tbsp sea salt to boil in a saucepan, until salt dissolves. Add pumpkin seeds, reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 mins. Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper. Preheat oven to 180C or 160C fan. Lay seeds in a single layer on a baking tray. Sprinkle with a little sea salt and bake for 30-35mins, tossing every 10 mins, until seeds are crisp and golden.

When completely cool, store in an airtight container.

Note – Different varieties of pumpkin seeds have different textures and flavours. Seeds in the image are from the Jap and Queensland blue pumpkin. Experiment to see which is your favourite!

Photography by SUE STUBBS | Blog designed by RED PEPPER GRAPHICS